GRAIN AND ITS TYPES

On grain: A fabric in which the crosswise yarns run exactly at right angles to
lengthwise yarns and which has right-angled corners is said to be on grain or grain perfect
(Fig.3.1b).download

Off grain: A fabric in which the crosswise are not running exactly at right angles to
lengthwise yarns is referred to as off grain fabric. This happens because the fabric has been
pulled out of shape and pressed in that position during finishing at the factory (Fig.3.1c).download

Off grain print: In a print made of lines, checks, etc, if the lines do not run straight
along lengthwise or crosswise grain, it is referred to as an off grain print (Fig.3.1d). Fabrics
with off grain prints should not be selected for garment construction because with such
fabrics it will be almost impossible to make the right and left half of the garment identical in
design or to match the design along seams, centre front, centre back etc (See Fig.3.1e).download

With the grain, Against the grain: Stroke a bias-cut edge of a fabric with your thumb
and forefinger. You will find that if the stroking is in one direction the yarns tend to come
apart causing the edge to fray, while if you stroke in the opposite direction the yarns close up
compactly with the rest of the fabric. The latter direction is said to be with the grain and the
former, against the 'grain. (In (Fig.3.1f),download the arrow points in the direction with the grain).
While working (cutting, stitching, ironing etc.) along a bias edge, one should obviously work
with the grain to avoid stretching or ravelling. This is especially important for fabrics which
ravel easily.