GRAIN AND ITS TYPES

On grain: A fabric in which the crosswise yarns run exactly at right angles to
lengthwise yarns and which has right-angled corners is said to be on grain or grain perfect
(Fig.3.1b).download

Off grain: A fabric in which the crosswise are not running exactly at right angles to
lengthwise yarns is referred to as off grain fabric. This happens because the fabric has been
pulled out of shape and pressed in that position during finishing at the factory (Fig.3.1c).download

Off grain print: In a print made of lines, checks, etc, if the lines do not run straight
along lengthwise or crosswise grain, it is referred to as an off grain print (Fig.3.1d). Fabrics
with off grain prints should not be selected for garment construction because with such
fabrics it will be almost impossible to make the right and left half of the garment identical in
design or to match the design along seams, centre front, centre back etc (See Fig.3.1e).download

With the grain, Against the grain: Stroke a bias-cut edge of a fabric with your thumb
and forefinger. You will find that if the stroking is in one direction the yarns tend to come
apart causing the edge to fray, while if you stroke in the opposite direction the yarns close up
compactly with the rest of the fabric. The latter direction is said to be with the grain and the
former, against the 'grain. (In (Fig.3.1f),download the arrow points in the direction with the grain).
While working (cutting, stitching, ironing etc.) along a bias edge, one should obviously work
with the grain to avoid stretching or ravelling. This is especially important for fabrics which
ravel easily.

PREPARATION OF FABRIC FOR CUTTING

PREPARATION OF FABRIC FOR CUTTING
The following basic terms should be understood proceeding to prepare the fabric.
Grain (Fig.3.1a) : Grain refers to the direction of yarns in a fabric. Woven fabrics are
made up of lengthwise and crosswise or filling yarns interlaced at right angles to each other.
These yarns are called the lengthwise and crosswise grains of the fabric. On patterns,
lengthwise grain is referred to as straight grain. Bias grain is any direction on a fabric that
does not exactly follow a lengthwise or a crosswise yarn. True bias makes a 45° angle with
the lengthwise and crosswise yarns.
Lengthwise yarns are usually stronger and heavier and stretch less than crosswise yarns.
This property can be used to identify the lengthwise grain on a piece of fabric which has no
selvedge. Stretch the fabric along one grain, holding it taut with your two hands held 2"-3"
apart; then stretch it similarly along the perpendicular grain. Of the two directions, the one
which stretches less is the lengthwise grain.
Selvedge: This is the finished edge of the fabric which runs lengthwise (See Fig.3.1a)
Selvedge is woven differently with extra yarns and stronger yarns than the rest of the fabric.
In a good quality fabric, the selvedge is very compactly woven and is about half an inch
wide. On poor fabrics, selvedge will be narrow and loosely woven.
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