GRAIN AND ITS TYPES

On grain: A fabric in which the crosswise yarns run exactly at right angles to
lengthwise yarns and which has right-angled corners is said to be on grain or grain perfect
(Fig.3.1b).download

Off grain: A fabric in which the crosswise are not running exactly at right angles to
lengthwise yarns is referred to as off grain fabric. This happens because the fabric has been
pulled out of shape and pressed in that position during finishing at the factory (Fig.3.1c).download

Off grain print: In a print made of lines, checks, etc, if the lines do not run straight
along lengthwise or crosswise grain, it is referred to as an off grain print (Fig.3.1d). Fabrics
with off grain prints should not be selected for garment construction because with such
fabrics it will be almost impossible to make the right and left half of the garment identical in
design or to match the design along seams, centre front, centre back etc (See Fig.3.1e).download

With the grain, Against the grain: Stroke a bias-cut edge of a fabric with your thumb
and forefinger. You will find that if the stroking is in one direction the yarns tend to come
apart causing the edge to fray, while if you stroke in the opposite direction the yarns close up
compactly with the rest of the fabric. The latter direction is said to be with the grain and the
former, against the 'grain. (In (Fig.3.1f),download the arrow points in the direction with the grain).
While working (cutting, stitching, ironing etc.) along a bias edge, one should obviously work
with the grain to avoid stretching or ravelling. This is especially important for fabrics which
ravel easily.

PREPARATION OF FABRIC FOR CUTTING

PREPARATION OF FABRIC FOR CUTTING
The following basic terms should be understood proceeding to prepare the fabric.
Grain (Fig.3.1a) : Grain refers to the direction of yarns in a fabric. Woven fabrics are
made up of lengthwise and crosswise or filling yarns interlaced at right angles to each other.
These yarns are called the lengthwise and crosswise grains of the fabric. On patterns,
lengthwise grain is referred to as straight grain. Bias grain is any direction on a fabric that
does not exactly follow a lengthwise or a crosswise yarn. True bias makes a 45° angle with
the lengthwise and crosswise yarns.
Lengthwise yarns are usually stronger and heavier and stretch less than crosswise yarns.
This property can be used to identify the lengthwise grain on a piece of fabric which has no
selvedge. Stretch the fabric along one grain, holding it taut with your two hands held 2"-3"
apart; then stretch it similarly along the perpendicular grain. Of the two directions, the one
which stretches less is the lengthwise grain.
Selvedge: This is the finished edge of the fabric which runs lengthwise (See Fig.3.1a)
Selvedge is woven differently with extra yarns and stronger yarns than the rest of the fabric.
In a good quality fabric, the selvedge is very compactly woven and is about half an inch
wide. On poor fabrics, selvedge will be narrow and loosely woven.
figure=download

EIGHT HEAD THEORY

EIGHT HEAD THEORY FOR MEASUREMENT
Artists have divided a grown up human body into eight equal parts, which are equal in
height to that of the head. So each part is known as the ‘head’. All these eight divisions or
heads are as follows:
1st head = from hair to chin or nape of neck.
2nd head = from nape of neck to nipple or bottom of scye.
3rd head = from bottom of scye to naval or hollow of waist.
4th head = from naval to fork or pubic organs.
5th head = from fork to mid thigh or end of fingers, with arm at side.
6th head = from mid-thigh to small, below knee.
7th head = from small to lower leg, just above the ankle.
8th head = from lower leg to ball of foot, standing tip-toe.
Note: Actually the total human height is computed at7 1/2 heads, but for easy calculations,
the height is taken from hair to the foot, standing tip-toe, thus making eight equal parts.

Size chart 2
The largest percentage of the population falls into medium height range. Although the
girth of women varies, the general trend is for weight to increase with height. This feature is
reflected in the size charts.
Download1
Download2
A number of companies are, for commercial reasons, using 5cm intervals between all
sizes. This procedure eliminates the size 8 and allows many grading increments to remain the
same across the size range. A 5cm interval size chart for use with the popular sizes 10-22 is
shown below. Note the size chart just stays within the lower limit of the BSI size range
standard for size 10.
Download
Download2
Download3
Download4
Download5

Measuring table
Download 1 

Where practicable, the pictogram should be used as a means of indicating the size
designation. Where it is not practicable to use the pictogram, the control measurements
should be given, together with the descriptive words such as bust girth, hip girth, etc.
alongside, in the order shown below.
Tables from BS 3666: 1982 Size coding scheme for women’s outer wear are reproduced
by permission of The British Standards Institution, 2 Park Street, London W1A 2BS.

1.5 STANDARDIZING BODY MEASUREMENTS
TECHNIQUES
Measurement surveys collect measurement data to produce sizing systems. They are very
costly. To obtain reliable data, thousands of subjects have to be measured and it is very
difficult to obtain public money for the task. The last comprehensive British survey of
women's body measurements, publicly available, was published in 1957. Many companies still
use this data, but modify it with reference to European surveys, their own sample surveys of
their particular product market, leaked information or other available data: e.g. an increase in
waist measurement and the height increase in younger women.
Measurement by different types of scanning has been developed. Experimental work is
taking place with the Hamamatsu Photonics Bodyline near infrared scanner in the
Department of Computer Science, University College, London. Recent surveys have been
undertaken at Loughborough University using a shadow scanner (LASS). This method creates a
measurable three-dimensional image. A slit of light is passed over a rotating body whilst cameras
record the image. Dimensions around and through the body can be recorded. The French system
TELMAT has updated its 2D body measurement system to 3D imagery in order to provide
more accurate calculations of body measurements.
British Standards
Sizing: The British Standards Institution has established a size designation system that
indicates (in a simple, direct and meaningful manner) the body size of the woman that a
garment is intended to d\. The size designation system is based on body and not garment
measurements.
Size Designation: The size designation of each garment should comprise the control
dimensions, in centimeters, of the intended wearer of that garment.

1.4 BOYS AND MEN’S MEASUREMENTS
Many measurements are common for both women’s garments and men’s garments. In
addition to women’s measurements fewer measurements are required for men's and boys
garments. They are listed below:

Shirt Length
Shirt length should be measured from neck at highest point of shoulder to desired length
along the front.
Pant Length
Pant length is measured from waist to ankle along with side of the body.
Cuff Measurement
Cuff measurement is estimated by measuring the wrist loosely and adding ½” overlap
extension to it.