EIGHT HEAD THEORY

EIGHT HEAD THEORY FOR MEASUREMENT
Artists have divided a grown up human body into eight equal parts, which are equal in
height to that of the head. So each part is known as the ‘head’. All these eight divisions or
heads are as follows:
1st head = from hair to chin or nape of neck.
2nd head = from nape of neck to nipple or bottom of scye.
3rd head = from bottom of scye to naval or hollow of waist.
4th head = from naval to fork or pubic organs.
5th head = from fork to mid thigh or end of fingers, with arm at side.
6th head = from mid-thigh to small, below knee.
7th head = from small to lower leg, just above the ankle.
8th head = from lower leg to ball of foot, standing tip-toe.
Note: Actually the total human height is computed at7 1/2 heads, but for easy calculations,
the height is taken from hair to the foot, standing tip-toe, thus making eight equal parts.

Size chart 2
The largest percentage of the population falls into medium height range. Although the
girth of women varies, the general trend is for weight to increase with height. This feature is
reflected in the size charts.
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A number of companies are, for commercial reasons, using 5cm intervals between all
sizes. This procedure eliminates the size 8 and allows many grading increments to remain the
same across the size range. A 5cm interval size chart for use with the popular sizes 10-22 is
shown below. Note the size chart just stays within the lower limit of the BSI size range
standard for size 10.
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Measuring table
Download 1 

Where practicable, the pictogram should be used as a means of indicating the size
designation. Where it is not practicable to use the pictogram, the control measurements
should be given, together with the descriptive words such as bust girth, hip girth, etc.
alongside, in the order shown below.
Tables from BS 3666: 1982 Size coding scheme for women’s outer wear are reproduced
by permission of The British Standards Institution, 2 Park Street, London W1A 2BS.

1.5 STANDARDIZING BODY MEASUREMENTS
TECHNIQUES
Measurement surveys collect measurement data to produce sizing systems. They are very
costly. To obtain reliable data, thousands of subjects have to be measured and it is very
difficult to obtain public money for the task. The last comprehensive British survey of
women's body measurements, publicly available, was published in 1957. Many companies still
use this data, but modify it with reference to European surveys, their own sample surveys of
their particular product market, leaked information or other available data: e.g. an increase in
waist measurement and the height increase in younger women.
Measurement by different types of scanning has been developed. Experimental work is
taking place with the Hamamatsu Photonics Bodyline near infrared scanner in the
Department of Computer Science, University College, London. Recent surveys have been
undertaken at Loughborough University using a shadow scanner (LASS). This method creates a
measurable three-dimensional image. A slit of light is passed over a rotating body whilst cameras
record the image. Dimensions around and through the body can be recorded. The French system
TELMAT has updated its 2D body measurement system to 3D imagery in order to provide
more accurate calculations of body measurements.
British Standards
Sizing: The British Standards Institution has established a size designation system that
indicates (in a simple, direct and meaningful manner) the body size of the woman that a
garment is intended to d\. The size designation system is based on body and not garment
measurements.
Size Designation: The size designation of each garment should comprise the control
dimensions, in centimeters, of the intended wearer of that garment.

1.4 BOYS AND MEN’S MEASUREMENTS
Many measurements are common for both women’s garments and men’s garments. In
addition to women’s measurements fewer measurements are required for men's and boys
garments. They are listed below:

Shirt Length
Shirt length should be measured from neck at highest point of shoulder to desired length
along the front.
Pant Length
Pant length is measured from waist to ankle along with side of the body.
Cuff Measurement
Cuff measurement is estimated by measuring the wrist loosely and adding ½” overlap
extension to it.

1.3 LADIES MEASUREMENTS
The various positions on the body where measurements are to be taken are shown.
Bust: Measure around the fullest part of the bust raising the measuring tape slightly to
a level just below the shoulder blades at the back.
Waist: Measure snugly around the waist (where you tied the cord) keeping the tape
parallel to the floor.
Neck: Measure around the neck, passing the tape just above the collar bone in front and
along the base of the neck at the back.
Shoulder: Measure from the neck joint to the arm joint along the middle of the shoulder
(A to B in Fig.1.1a).
Front waist length: Measure down from neck at highest point of shoulder to waist line
through the fullest part of the bust (A to C in Fig.1.1a).
Shoulder to bust: Measure down from highest point of shoulder to tip of bust (A to D in
Fig.1.1a).
Distance between bust points: Measure in the horizontal direction, the distance
between the two bust points (D to E in Fig.1.1a).
Back width or across back measurement: Measure across the back from armhole to
armhole about 3 inches below base of neck (P to Q in Fig.1.1b).
Back waist length: Measure from the base of neck at the center back to waist line (R to
S in Fig.1.1b).
Armhole depth: Measure from base of neck at center back to a point directly below it
an in level with the bottom of the arm where it joints the body (R to T in Fig.1.1b).

Sleeve measurements
Upper arm circumference: Measure around the fullest part of the arm.
Lower arm: Measure around the arm at desired level corresponding to lower edge of sleeve.
Elbow circumference: Measure around the arm elbow.
Wrist: Measure around the wrist.
Sleeve length: For short sleeve length, measure down from tip of shoulder at top of
arm to desired length of sleeve (B to F in Fig.1.1a). For elbow length sleeve measure from
top of arm to elbow point (B to G in Fig.1.1a). For full length, bend the elbow slightly and
measure down from top of arm to back of wrist passing the tape over the elbow point (B to H
in Fig.1.1a).

Skirt measurements
Waist: Same as for bodice.
Hip: Measure around the fullest part or the hip horizontally. (This level will be bout
7 to 9 inches below the waist for an average figure).
Waist to hip: Measure down from waist at centre back to fullest part of the hip (S to
U in Fig.1.1b).
Skirt length: Measure down the centre back from waist to desired length of skirt (S
to V in Fig.1.1b)

1.2 PREPARATION FOR MEASURING
For taking the measurements, use a good quality measuring tape which is sturdy and
will not stretch. The metal end of the tape should be used for vertical measurements and the
other end for horizontal and circumference measurements. The measurements should be
taken over a smooth fitting foundation garment and never over bulky garments. Before taking
measurements, tie a cord or string around the waist. Next, take ¼” wide tape and cast it
around your armhole. This will make it easier to measure width of shoulders, arm depth
etc. Stand erect with the arms hanging straight at the sides while measurements are being
made by some one else. Take snug measurements rather that tight or loose ones. Hold the
tape parallel to the floor for horizontal measurements, and perpendicular to the floor for
vertical measurements. As the measurements are taken, record them in a note book or laptop or tablet computer.

1.1 IMPORTANCE OF BODY MEASUREMENT

In order to construct garments that fit well, body measurements must be taken with
precision. You can draft original patterns based on these measurements which can be used as
the basis of a variety of styles. You may buy commercial patterns, but to select the pattern
of correct size and later to make pattern adjustments to fit your figure you have to know your
own measurements.